Surge Tank

Project Surge Tank – Work in progress 30/05/15

Been experiencing fuel surge on the track so surge tank is a must. Went with PWR’s custom surge tank with fuel line entry in the bottom of the tank which are then accessible from underneath the vehicle which means no fuel lines in the boot, no fuel smells, no risk of fire and no rear firewall required.

 

With some friendly advice from Michael at MSR he gave me a list of things required as he didn’t have the time to do it for me prior to Subinats 2015. Googled everything I could think of so I understand the process and reckon this is one job I can tackle myself.

Parts

• Surgetank of course
• Bosch 30A relay
• 30A inline fuse or circuit breaker
• 5M of 50A 2 core automotive wire
• 3M of 15A 2 core automotive wire
• 1M of 12.7mm (1/2″) e85 compatible fuel hose
• 4M of 8mm (5/16″) e85 compatible fuel hose
• Box of hose clamps

Procedure

1 – I always disconnect the battery before I do any type of work where there may be a risk of electrical short even if the repair is not electrical related.

2 – Locate the EOM in tank fuel pump trigger wire/s. I have seen this spliced at connector R46 under the drivers side (RHD) rear seat. This feed runs back to the fuel pump controller located in the rear drivers side fender accessible through the boot. I thought it makes better sense to run back to there as R46 is more prone to damage especially with rear seats removed.Its held in by a couple of bolts which are captive on the fuel pump controller. Undo these and pop it out for easier access to the fuel pump controller harness connector R122.

                         

3 – Strip the factory tape and rubber insulation back about 100mm from the connector to give you plenty of room to splice into the trigger wires. The fuel pump trigger wires are the black/yellow on connector pin 7  (+) and black/white on connector pin 6 (-). Note there are two black/white wires. You’re after the two side by side.

 

4 – Strip the sheath off the black/yellow and black/white to expose about 10mm of bare wire. Make sure you do this at different lengths from R122 so your join isn’t at the same location on both wires. I do this to prevent a short if there is a sharp solder dag that may work its way through the tape once taped up again. I used a couple of cable ties to secure the 15A 2 core wire while soldering and I ended up leaving them there for strain relief. Note red to black/yellow and black to black/white. Tape each wire individually to insulate then put the factory rubber sleeve over the join and tape the lot up again for that factory look. Where is that splice?

                                     

 

5 – Run your trigger wire back to your relay location. I mounted mine on a piece of aluminium mounted in the boot on the left hand side which is near where my surge tank will go along with my circuit breaker for the main power feed for my secondary pump.

photo here soon

6 – More to come ……….